There is a sea change in normal routines during the month of Ramzan. “We are up as a family by 3.30 am, say our prayers, and are allowed to eat till 4.30 am,” says Najma Husain, once a resident of Chennai. At suhoor, they eat food to sustain themselves till the iftar, the breaking of the fast in the evening.

 

We talk as we drive to Aroos Damascus Restaurant, a partly-outdoor, partly-indoor place. By 6.30 pm, the restaurant is full, and everyone waits for the iftar. The buffet tables groan with delicacies —lightly-spiced biryani with large chunks of lamb, oily chicken curry, arayes (rotis with pockets stuffed with delicious minced lamb), mini pizzas, salads, (the tabbouleh is heavenly), large plates of fresh cut fruit, toasted bread with topping, hummus and falafel sprinkled with sesame seeds.

 

Healthy alternative

 

Generally, the healthy alternative to a food-laden iftar is water, a couple of dates, soup, and plenty of fruit, which is what Shirin Khambata, a Bohri Muslim recommends. It is a pleasant way to detox, bask in the spiritual ambience, coupled with family gatherings and prayers.

 

Some of the encouraging sights you see during Ramzan are the gathering of large groups of people in public spaces, irrespective of their background, waiting patiently to break their day-long fast. A community-based initiative for Ramzan is sharing fridges stocked with food, drinks and fruit, accessible to all those who are waiting to break their fast. Started by a single resident who set up a fridge for her community, it went viral as thousands of volunteers followed suit across four Emirates. The Ramadan Sharing Fridge initiative is back this year, with 100 fridges registered across Dubai communities, and run by 13 expats. The Ramzan fridge opens its doors to the public round the clock and children are encouraged to participate and donate some of their pocket money to buy food for the fridges. Residents are encouraged to donate fruits and vegetables, juices, water, laban and dry fruits.

 

The family iftars are very much in place, where the thaals are placed on short round tables called chumlis and family members sit together and help themselves. A pinch of salt at the beginning of iftar and at the end of it is supposed to heal 72 ailments. For three years now, the World Memon Organisation has been serving iftar meals to more than 3,000 labourers in Dubai and Ajman. They are served biryani, laban, dates and water. Community iftars are organised by mosques, charitable organisations, and corporate houses. You come across much activity around mosques. Hotels vie with one another to lay out their delicacies for iftar, and sometimes eating goes well into the night.

 

Plan ahead

 

Ramzan is a time when the rhythm of life in the UAE truly transforms — rush hour is from 2 pm to 4 pm, networking meetings are often held at late night suhoors, and the cities hibernate on Friday and Saturday. Movies are not shown in the day, but late in the evening. Supermarkets stock their shelves with groceries, vegetables and fruit, and you have to plan your visit judiciously. No hotels or clubs host activities during the fast, and everything opens up at 7 pm. Many offices are kept open only till 3 pm, and that is when the roads get jammed.

 

The spirit of Ramzan is exuding courtesy for the people who are fasting, giving freely and generously and bringing families together. I returned to India with gratitude for being part of it.